Rajasthan would easily qualify as the most colourful and exuberant state in India. We did a week’s trip covering Jaipur, Ranthambore, Jodhpur and Jaisalmer. We could not do Udaipur as it would have meant minimum 2 more days. Sharing our experiences and tips for Rajasthan travel in this blog article. May end up elaborating some places later but this here is the summary.
Our itinerary in a gist:
My impressions on Rajasthan:
Rajasthan is one of the most tourist friendly states with very warm hospitality. No wonder it is high on the must visit places for foreigners. It is also a state where your days would be tightly packed with so many attractions (complete paisa vasool!). You name it, you get it – nature, history, science, wild life, art and architecture, shopping, food – and even saw pubs at Jaipur and Jodhpur!
The state has a rich history but most rulers seem to have prospered thanks to alliance with the Moghal dynasty. The alliance has been a blessing for the arts and handicrafts with a dazzling blend of Indian, Persian and Moghul art. The palaces and forts are a feast to the eyes and speak volumes. Many arts go hand in hand – jem cutting results in lot of fine powder of precious gems which are then used for those glorious paintings on walls and ceilings!
You cannot miss royalty in Rajasthan - there are still descendants of some dynasties living in private palaces in the state. While some Kings seem to have been visionaries and built amazing structures like Jantar Mantar, there is also evidence of sheer luxury and splurging by some others!
Food in Rajasthan is again a tribute to how the locals have managed in the harsh desert with what what was available, but making a royal cuisine out of it! But it takes a strong heart and stomach to eat dal bhati churma more than once a day! The desert dish Kair Sangri is another must try as are the mogra and onion kachodis in Jodhpur.
In many forts , you can see locals playing indigenous instruments – it was awesome soulful music produced spontaneously. Ravan Hatha was one such string instrument.
Dont miss:
Jaipur – Jantar Mantar, Isarlat (a seven storied tower which was fun to climb up), City palace, Amer fort, a step well called Panna Meena Ka Kund (just backdoor to Amer fort), Jalmahal (though only outside), and of course a walk through the old Pink city. Hawa mahal is good to look from outside. We were told that Anokhi museum is good, but missed.
Jodhpur – The Umaid Bhawan palace can be skipped if you dont have time. Mehrangarh fort is worth spending an entire day. Wrap up your day with dinner at the fort view restaurant – an awesome experience (check my review listing down on Chokelao restaurant in Trip advisor).
Jaisalmer – If you have just a night, worth it to stay in the desert – I am happy we did that! While the camel ride is unforgettable and amusing, the sun set and sun rise in the desert among the dunes is surreal. The place is heavily crowded for Sunset and so it is worth it to stay in the desert camp and then catch the sun rise in peace! Gadsisagar lake is beautiful in Jaisalmer and a great chill out place. The havelis and fort are not to be missed. A painting / inscription in this fort traces the entire lineage of Rathore from God Sri Krishna (check my picture below).
Ranthambore - The safari in the jungle is really worth it! The forest here is quite different from the ones in South. It changes colours so beautifully. Of course the star is the TIGER. I am not sure if this is technically correct or valid but looks like spotting is easy here given the sparse flora. And the star takes its own time to saunter in front of you with no care in the world :>
If you have time, do the trip to the fort and temple there (goes through the park) - apparently it is a beautiful trek also. You may even spot the tiger here.
A photo journey here :
Starting with THE TIGER
Did you Know that Marwar art profiles features faces only sideways with almond shaped eyes?
Step well - Panna Meena Ka Kund
What all can you spot in one flower? A snake, Scorpion, Trunk of an elephant ...
Rajasthan is famous for its locks! Beautfiully described in the book Locks, Mahabharatha and Mathematics By V Raghunathan
Jaisalmer - View of the Golden city
Majestic Mehrangarh fort
Lineage of Jaisalmer Kings starting from Lord Sri Krishna
Sunset at the Thar Desert
Some tips:
Take a combined ticket in Jaipur for all attractions (available at major attractions like Jantar Mantar or Amer fort). It works out economical and saves the trouble of standing in queue at each attraction. Also the student rates are very cheap (Rs 15 to Rs 100 for adult) but you need to show the ID Card to avail of the same. So, carry your children’s ID card.
You need cab for local travel as public transport is not an option in Rajasthan cities. Depending on your itinerary, you can either book a cab for the day (if you are hopping from site to site) or you can use services like Ola as you go. Be prepared for delays with cab services like Ola. Many hotels provide cabs but at times these can be overwhelming and drivers would want to have a say in what you should do, where you should eat and what you should buy (all in the spirit of Aditi Devo Bhava!:>). One needs to diplomatically manage them without letting our agenda hijacked.
Shopping: Rajasthan is choc-o-block with handicrafts shops. We stuck mostly to Government run or trust run emporiums for shopping. In Jaipur, you can try the Rajasthan Shilp Gram Udyog or Maharani market – they ship your purchase with 5% insurance cost – my package arrived on time and in good condition. This place also has a facility where you can buy selected jewellery and can return any time to take full refund!! A village run handicraft place near Amer fort is also a good place to shop for paintings and jewellery as gift items (starting from Rs 100 for crystal chains, etc). Inside City palace compound, there are shops run by the Maharani trust which also were good.
Beware that credit cards are NOT accepted in many places , other than Jaipur. There are ATMs in all cities though.
One thing that stood out : The guides
Whether an attraction is maintained by Government or private, Rajasthan leads the way in having very good certified guides who are passionate about what they are talking, and have been trained well. In fact, there are guides who can speak multiple foreign languages also.
Most of the attractions also have audio guides but I would prefer hearing the history of a 500 year fort from a descendent of the king, a hard core Rathore with towering height and twitching moustache. On questioned how there can be so many descendants of the King(s), our guide cheekily replied that other than the legal wives, all the Rajasthan Kings had an overflowing harem.
Reviews on hotels and attractions:
Please see my reviews in Trip advisor here:
http://www.tripadvisor.in/ShowUserReviews-g304555-d472632-r322366317-Umaid_Bhawan_Heritage_House_Hotel-Jaipur_Rajasthan.html
http://www.tripadvisor.in/ShowUserReviews-g297671-d447531-r324051172-The_Ranthambhore_Bagh-Sawai_Madhopur_Rajasthan.html
http://www.tripadvisor.in/ShowUserReviews-g297668-d6163643-r321804344-The_Marwar_Regency_Hotel-Jodhpur_Rajasthan.html
http://www.tripadvisor.in/ShowUserReviews-g297667-d1976668-r324059512-Hotel_Tokyo_Palace_Jaisalmer-Jaisalmer_Rajasthan.html
http://www.tripadvisor.in/ShowUserReviews-g297668-d5988266-r321808153-Chokelao_Restaurant_at_Meherangarh_Fort-Jodhpur_Rajasthan.html
http://www.tripadvisor.in/ShowUserReviews-g304555-d3321015-r321781208-Panna_Meena_ka_Kund-Jaipur_Rajasthan.html
http://www.tripadvisor.in/ShowUserReviews-g297667-d4697155-r324061570-K_B_cafe-Jaisalmer_Rajasthan.html
http://www.tripadvisor.in/ShowUserReviews-g297668-d1195512-r321822985-On_the_Rocks-Jodhpur_Rajasthan.html
Logistics:
If you are planning the trip ahead, make use of trains within the state. There are convenient trains covering most cities at convenient times. We made use of these trains:
Our itinerary in a gist:
- Saturday evening – Air Asia flight from Bangalore to Jaipur; Check in to Umaid Bhawan Palace
- Sunday & Monday – Jaipur local sightseeing, shopping
- Tuesday – Jaipur to Sawai Madhopur by train; Overnight stay at The Ranthambore Bagh
- Wednesday – Saw 2 tigers ! Sawai Madhopur to Jodhpur by train and check in to The Marwar Regency Hotel
- Thursday – Sight seeing at Jodhpur and overnight train to Jaisalmer
- Friday – Check in to Tokyo Palace; Local sight seeing and proceeded to Thar desert camp (KK Resorts)
- Saturday – Local sightseeing; evening cab to Jodhpur and overnight bus to Jaipur
- Sunday – Air Asia flight from Jaipur to Bangalore
My impressions on Rajasthan:
Rajasthan is one of the most tourist friendly states with very warm hospitality. No wonder it is high on the must visit places for foreigners. It is also a state where your days would be tightly packed with so many attractions (complete paisa vasool!). You name it, you get it – nature, history, science, wild life, art and architecture, shopping, food – and even saw pubs at Jaipur and Jodhpur!
The state has a rich history but most rulers seem to have prospered thanks to alliance with the Moghal dynasty. The alliance has been a blessing for the arts and handicrafts with a dazzling blend of Indian, Persian and Moghul art. The palaces and forts are a feast to the eyes and speak volumes. Many arts go hand in hand – jem cutting results in lot of fine powder of precious gems which are then used for those glorious paintings on walls and ceilings!
You cannot miss royalty in Rajasthan - there are still descendants of some dynasties living in private palaces in the state. While some Kings seem to have been visionaries and built amazing structures like Jantar Mantar, there is also evidence of sheer luxury and splurging by some others!
Food in Rajasthan is again a tribute to how the locals have managed in the harsh desert with what what was available, but making a royal cuisine out of it! But it takes a strong heart and stomach to eat dal bhati churma more than once a day! The desert dish Kair Sangri is another must try as are the mogra and onion kachodis in Jodhpur.
In many forts , you can see locals playing indigenous instruments – it was awesome soulful music produced spontaneously. Ravan Hatha was one such string instrument.
Dont miss:
Jaipur – Jantar Mantar, Isarlat (a seven storied tower which was fun to climb up), City palace, Amer fort, a step well called Panna Meena Ka Kund (just backdoor to Amer fort), Jalmahal (though only outside), and of course a walk through the old Pink city. Hawa mahal is good to look from outside. We were told that Anokhi museum is good, but missed.
Jodhpur – The Umaid Bhawan palace can be skipped if you dont have time. Mehrangarh fort is worth spending an entire day. Wrap up your day with dinner at the fort view restaurant – an awesome experience (check my review listing down on Chokelao restaurant in Trip advisor).
Jaisalmer – If you have just a night, worth it to stay in the desert – I am happy we did that! While the camel ride is unforgettable and amusing, the sun set and sun rise in the desert among the dunes is surreal. The place is heavily crowded for Sunset and so it is worth it to stay in the desert camp and then catch the sun rise in peace! Gadsisagar lake is beautiful in Jaisalmer and a great chill out place. The havelis and fort are not to be missed. A painting / inscription in this fort traces the entire lineage of Rathore from God Sri Krishna (check my picture below).
Ranthambore - The safari in the jungle is really worth it! The forest here is quite different from the ones in South. It changes colours so beautifully. Of course the star is the TIGER. I am not sure if this is technically correct or valid but looks like spotting is easy here given the sparse flora. And the star takes its own time to saunter in front of you with no care in the world :>
If you have time, do the trip to the fort and temple there (goes through the park) - apparently it is a beautiful trek also. You may even spot the tiger here.
A photo journey here :
Starting with THE TIGER
Did you Know that Marwar art profiles features faces only sideways with almond shaped eyes?
Step well - Panna Meena Ka Kund
What all can you spot in one flower? A snake, Scorpion, Trunk of an elephant ...
Rajasthan is famous for its locks! Beautfiully described in the book Locks, Mahabharatha and Mathematics By V Raghunathan
Jaisalmer - View of the Golden city
Majestic Mehrangarh fort
Lineage of Jaisalmer Kings starting from Lord Sri Krishna
Sunset at the Thar Desert
Some tips:
Take a combined ticket in Jaipur for all attractions (available at major attractions like Jantar Mantar or Amer fort). It works out economical and saves the trouble of standing in queue at each attraction. Also the student rates are very cheap (Rs 15 to Rs 100 for adult) but you need to show the ID Card to avail of the same. So, carry your children’s ID card.
You need cab for local travel as public transport is not an option in Rajasthan cities. Depending on your itinerary, you can either book a cab for the day (if you are hopping from site to site) or you can use services like Ola as you go. Be prepared for delays with cab services like Ola. Many hotels provide cabs but at times these can be overwhelming and drivers would want to have a say in what you should do, where you should eat and what you should buy (all in the spirit of Aditi Devo Bhava!:>). One needs to diplomatically manage them without letting our agenda hijacked.
Shopping: Rajasthan is choc-o-block with handicrafts shops. We stuck mostly to Government run or trust run emporiums for shopping. In Jaipur, you can try the Rajasthan Shilp Gram Udyog or Maharani market – they ship your purchase with 5% insurance cost – my package arrived on time and in good condition. This place also has a facility where you can buy selected jewellery and can return any time to take full refund!! A village run handicraft place near Amer fort is also a good place to shop for paintings and jewellery as gift items (starting from Rs 100 for crystal chains, etc). Inside City palace compound, there are shops run by the Maharani trust which also were good.
Beware that credit cards are NOT accepted in many places , other than Jaipur. There are ATMs in all cities though.
One thing that stood out : The guides
Whether an attraction is maintained by Government or private, Rajasthan leads the way in having very good certified guides who are passionate about what they are talking, and have been trained well. In fact, there are guides who can speak multiple foreign languages also.
Most of the attractions also have audio guides but I would prefer hearing the history of a 500 year fort from a descendent of the king, a hard core Rathore with towering height and twitching moustache. On questioned how there can be so many descendants of the King(s), our guide cheekily replied that other than the legal wives, all the Rajasthan Kings had an overflowing harem.
Reviews on hotels and attractions:
Please see my reviews in Trip advisor here:
http://www.tripadvisor.in/ShowUserReviews-g304555-d472632-r322366317-Umaid_Bhawan_Heritage_House_Hotel-Jaipur_Rajasthan.html
http://www.tripadvisor.in/ShowUserReviews-g297671-d447531-r324051172-The_Ranthambhore_Bagh-Sawai_Madhopur_Rajasthan.html
http://www.tripadvisor.in/ShowUserReviews-g297668-d6163643-r321804344-The_Marwar_Regency_Hotel-Jodhpur_Rajasthan.html
http://www.tripadvisor.in/ShowUserReviews-g297667-d1976668-r324059512-Hotel_Tokyo_Palace_Jaisalmer-Jaisalmer_Rajasthan.html
http://www.tripadvisor.in/ShowUserReviews-g297668-d5988266-r321808153-Chokelao_Restaurant_at_Meherangarh_Fort-Jodhpur_Rajasthan.html
http://www.tripadvisor.in/ShowUserReviews-g304555-d3321015-r321781208-Panna_Meena_ka_Kund-Jaipur_Rajasthan.html
http://www.tripadvisor.in/ShowUserReviews-g297667-d4697155-r324061570-K_B_cafe-Jaisalmer_Rajasthan.html
http://www.tripadvisor.in/ShowUserReviews-g297668-d1195512-r321822985-On_the_Rocks-Jodhpur_Rajasthan.html
Logistics:
If you are planning the trip ahead, make use of trains within the state. There are convenient trains covering most cities at convenient times. We made use of these trains:
- Jaipur to Sawai Madhopur (Ranthambore) – Jaipur Pune SF Express Train no 12940 – Departure 9:30 am from Jaipur reaching Sawai Madhopur at 11:30 am
- Sawai Madhopur to Jodhpur – Train no 12465 - Day train coming from Indore – leaving Sawai Madhopur at 2:30 pm and reaching Jodhpur at 10:30pm
- Jodhpur to Jaisalmer – Train No 14810 – Departure at 11:45 pm and arrival at Jaisalmer at 5 :30 am
- Jaisalmer to Jaipur – Train no 14660 – Depature at 5pm and arrival at Jaipur at 5 am. Our tickers did not get confirmed in this train. So we took a cab from Jaisalmer to Jodhpur (5K in Oct 2015 for Innova). Then a RSRTC Volvo semi sleeper overnight bus from Jodhpur to Jaipur.
Enjoyed recreating our Rajasthan travel through your post, Sumathy! Glad you and the family had a great time. Ker Sangri- YUM!
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